and i here i was thinking they stopped making computers for the space shuttle program nice build dude Also for the SSD I have steam GW2 and my OS on a 256gb and have over 100 free still ... after your done rocking a game in steam just delete the game files (not saves) and ur good too goooooooooo0o0o0o
Right now I have a 1Tb caviar black for general games and storage, a 120 Gb vertex 3 for the OS + important programs and then a 128 Gb Vertex 4 for the most important games. So right now Steam(Skyrim and maybe crysis 2) and GW2 are on the vertex 4. I don't think I could play skyrim on anything other than an SSD now. Load times were getting a little obscene in the last month or so with the amount of mods I had installed for the game.
i5 3570k + GTX 670 overclock EVGA GTX 670 4gb Superclocked Core Clock: 1215 MHz Mem Clock: 3496 MHz (6992 MHz) This is a combination of Heaven and actual gaming that has come to this overclock. I had a ~300 MHz higher mem clock but actual gaming didn't like that with the Core clock where it is. The only thing this isn't stable in right now is GW2 and the game is still poorly optimized. Intel i5 3570K I have been using the Digi+ Power control and TurboV EVO and Prime95 to do the overclocking with this and I am still working on lowering the voltage of this. The voltage readings between what I set and what I actually end up using as measured via AI Suite/CPU-Z don't match at all. Digi+ power control settings: CPU LLC: Regular CPU current capability: 120% CPU Voltage Frequency: Auto CPU Power Response Control: Regular CPU Power Thermal Control: 130 C CPU power phase control: Optimized CPU Power Duty Control: T.Probe TurboV EVO Settings: BCLK Frequency: 100.5 MHz CPU Voltage: 1.250 V DDR Voltage: 1.5 V CPU Ratio: 45 *I left the advanced mode settings alone since I don't know a whole lot about them atm. Average temps are around 68C right now.
Ambient T inside the case is ~28, outside in my house is ~26, motherboard is 29-40 depending on which sensor you are looking at. USB3.0, SATA6G and PCH are the hottest (35-40). Thermal radar reports ~32 for idle and real temp says ~34 idle, all +/- 2 or 3 C. T for thermal rader comes from a PCB sensor behind the CPU socket from what I gather so it is slightly cooler than the actual avg core temp. This is all as of right this moment, today is a cool day. The CPU idles around 1.1 +/- 0.02 V.
Gratz =] That is a well build machine!! You don't see that very often this days. Alot of pc user want crap like ibuypower or similar.
That is because of the load line calibration. Basically you set the voltage at 1.25v and the voltage is somewhere close to that point. However when the CPU is under load, the voltage drops proportionally to the load percentage. LoadLine Calibration (LLC for short) is a way to make up for this load voltage. Depending on your motherboard, high or extreme/ultra is usually the setting to get closest to the point you set your voltage to while under 100% load. Problem is you dont ever want to do that because of the spikes that LLC introduces. Load Line Calibration reacts to the voltage and load, and is not completely instant. When you are under load and your LLC is set to max you can be right at 1.25v, however if the task finishes and you drop to 0% load or whatever, LLC will take a split second to kick back off. During that split second, your voltage will spike as high as 1.7-1.8v to the core!! Very bad for your CPU. The lower your setting, the less spikes you get in your voltages. Regular is usually the best setting. The best way to do overvolting and LLC setting is actually to use offset voltage instead of setting whatever voltage you want. This triggers a different kind of way for the voltage to work and you actually dont need nearly as much LLC in order to maintain a voltage close to what you want. You just need to know the stock voltage your processor runs on, lets say 1.2v. Now in offset mode you would set the mode to + and then add in a setting of .05. This would bring you to 1.25v which i what you are wanting any when under load you should actually be closer to that 1.25v setting than if you had just set the voltage manually. Also, I dont know what setting you are on but it looks more like Large FFT in Prime 95. Small FFT is a much better stress on this architecture. If you do custom setting with the same sizes as the small FFT setting, but also tell it to use a large chunk of RAM at the same time it will also stress your memory controller too. A good test for total stability because nearly all the CPU is being stressed hard.
I was running blend to test the OC. Should I use small FFT instead? So basically at low load the machine runs at stock voltage whereas during high load it has space to go +.05 V? I had never even considered buying a pre built :/ I don't trust them putting it together and I wanted to experience building one myself. I feel like you always have to compromise in some way when building with those sites.
SmallFFT is a better stress test for overclocking. Blend does more memory testing than core. Not exactly. At idle the voltage will still be +.05v, but under load it goes up a little bit higher than the additional .05v. Dont ask me why or how it works, I dont know. I just know that it works weird but thats how things are.
Every once and a while when I startup/restart the computer I get what seems like power fluctuations. The logitech Z-5 speakers make a deep fluctuating noise and the lights on the corsair k90 flash. If I happen to need to tell the PC to start up normally after a crash the keyboard is unresponsive while it is flashing. Any idea about what may be happening? It seems something is funny about then power delivery to the USB ports on startup but I am not sure what would make the deep pulsing noise from the Z-5, could the inconsistent power delivery do that?
Thats very odd. I have never heard of that sort of issue before. How often does it crash? Because no new PC should be crashing at all.
It doesn't crash randomly. Just if it fails when I am testing a CPU OC. I'll try and grab a vid of it next time it happens and throw it up on youtube.
Could be a RAM error. I have heard something similar, but never at a windows boot situation. I have always seen that when playing a game and the RAM is a bit unstable, the computer would suddenly freeze completely and you would heard that sound out of your speakers. Very odd in your case though, that it happens after a crash while the PC is booting. I dont know why that would be caused. Just to be sure, I would leave it on overnight some time and run a memory test. Maybe start with Prime95 custom blend (set to use a big chunk of your memory). This would give you a general idea of your stability on the RAM and CPU, but not be a strong test on either one. If it passes that overnight, the next night you could have the computer booted into memtest and running loops all night. If that passes as well, it probably isnt a memory problem.