You get free 8gb of memory with a number of motherboards like: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131823 just add a second module of the same thing. Are you anticipating needing thunderbolt for some reason, opposed to just USB3? In any case there are some with TB on this page, they're all a part of the deal: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&Depa=0&Description=PPSSMBAATC0208 You're getting 16gb for the price of 8. It's a no brainer (especially when, just as a gaming/media PC, you're not likely to even need 8). That's what I did but I turned around and sold it to buy some of the Crucial low-voltage, low profile stuff (which has been great so far).
Coupla things... This is just completely not true, the 3820 is partial locked, and can have a multiplier of up to 43, and a BCLK of of 100 or 125. these processors overclock to 4.6-4.8 very easily. I ran mine at 5ghz with 1.5v and helped another memeber here overclock theirs to 4.625 ghz. Looks pretty good, just 2 things Is there any benefit going the extreme6 over the extreme4 ? I run an extreme4 with my 3570k and it works great, just as good as my p67 extreme4 for my old 2500k. Extreme6 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157344 Extreme4 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157293 Do you have any plans for 16gigs of ram? I "downgraded" from 16gb to 8gb when i setup this z77 over my x79 setup, because when i had 16gb, i was unable to use more then 7gb at a time, just didnt have anything to utilize that amount. Even with multiple games open, multiple internet browser windows/tabs and all kinds of programs running in the backround. Should be able to save $50 switching from 16gb to 8gb. Otherwise, your pc looks great, should work fantastically. Last night i just sold my 3570k/asrock extreme4 with a pair of MSI 6950 TFII to a good friend of mine, in trade for his tax return. So you should be in good company. =D
Okay, gonna let this sit in my cart for ~24hrs just to ensure I'm not rushing and getting somehting thats just not right.
I think you're pretty well set component-wise. You may want to check Amazon for prices on some things, however. My 3570k was cheaper there. With Prime I also saved on a decent bit of shipping. (You can get that on newegg too. Sign up for the shoprunner trial and cancel after your order gets out the door)
Well thats new. My old 3820 was locked down to 38 multiplier You need to either get 2x 8GB sticks or 2x 4GB sticks. If you use an odd number of sticks then you cannot use dual channel which doubles your bandwidth for free. I see though you have the RAM added twice, was that intentional? If so, then you are fine and you get 16GB. But that RAM is even more expensive than the other RAM you had picked out on the last page: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231609
Unexpected expense just reared its ugly head Had to remove the PSU and SSD *sigh* I have a 650W Crossair, but its ~5 years old hope it holds up. Expected delivery is 3/6, hoping to have it up and running by 3/7 or 3/8 after I do a battery of stability tests etc. Would be happier then a pig in mud if my RMA'ed SteelSeries V2's in Black/Gold would arrive next week as well
oh, Any tips on nicely (with stability) OC'ing this setup? Did not pick up H20 cooling so I can't push it that hard.
650w should handle it fine even after losing some capacity. You still bought the heatsink, yeah? A quick OC should be pretty simple. You should be able to hit 4ghz rather easily. You might find this helpful http://www.anandtech.com/show/5763/undervolting-and-overclocking-on-ivy-bridge
According to FedEx I should have my new HW Tuesday or Wednesday, which means I'm taking either Wednesday or Thursday off from work Anyone know of a decent OC guide for the mobo / cpu I snagged? Think the max I can push is 4Ghz, is it even worth it? What about memory OC, worth it? While at it, wondering if I should OC my AMD 6970 as well
I think the card auto boosts to 3.9 GHz so I don't think there would be a point in going to 4 GHz. Give 4.4 GHz a shot, the cooler should be able to handle it maybe even 4.5. It really all depends on how good of a chip you get and how many volts you need to put into the card to get your OC stable. Specific MoBo OC guide ^^^Should apply^^^ If not search around OCN and ask questions.
Thanks Ryld! I'll have to-do some research then Oh, Just upgraded my cable inet to 50Mbps/5Mbps should have a nice fast system with a solid inter connection
I have no idea what those speeds mean but I'll take your word for it. All I know is my internet is slow. I've had it for 10+ years and I am holding out because I have unlimited bandwidth. As far as I know, ISPs in Canada don't do that anymore.
50Mbs Down / 5Mbs up Might need to help OC'ing on Friday, sounds ike I just change the multiplier to 45 and tweak the voltage to like 1.21 and play whack a mole with stress testing???
That's how I went about it. I haven't run it through 12 hours of prime but I've never had a crash because of my CPU. It's always the OC on my GPU that causes a crash. I would start with stock and move up from there. I've seen a few people say they can do 4.5 on stock (I call bs but anything is possible). I'm using 1.26 V right now with PLL Voltage set to 1.7.
From reading the guides...basically yeah. I haven't done any OCing on sandy/ivy yet (I have experience on Pentium 4 northwoods, AMD64s and the first gen Core iXs...all had locked multipliers so things are a bit different). I'm still waiting on my CPU cooler to arrive to do some testing. If you have a frequency/voltage setting that works, then go and try to lower the voltage as much as you can through stress testing. Getting the voltage as low as you can ensures that you produce the least heat possible at some frequency.
Everything installed can only get OC'ed to 4.4 here is my 3DMark 11 results, good/bad/ugly? http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/6141944 gonna setup some OCCT / POV / Prime / ITT stability tests over the weekend.