You can do it either way and it will work fine. I would see if you can maintain a minimum FPS of 60 at all times and if so, run 120Hz on the monitor. If you drop below 60, then run at 96Hz on the monitor. This is because if you drop even .5 fps down below the vsync target (48 or 60 if running in 96Hz or 120Hz) then the effective FPS drops a huge amount for that refresh and it makes really bad stutter in games and can feel terrible in gameplay. This is true of all monitors and is what G-Sync is all about fixing. Basically if you run 60 fps vsync then you have 16.7ms frame times, if you drop even a tiny bit below 60 then it stutters because it basically drops to 33.3ms frame time for a split second and then goes back up. If you cant maintain a solid 60 minimum then you are bouncing between 16 and 33 millisecond frames and it doesnt feel smooth even if you have "about" 60fps. Maintaining a solid 48fps at all times would feel better because you are keeping a consistent frame time at all times with no variation. A GTX 780 should be able to maintain at least 48fps in just about any game, but 60fps in some newer games with maxed out settings I highly doubt it can. GPUs have a very hard time rendering in higher than 1080p right now, at least until next gen stuff comes around.
Naw, one runs whatever game I'm running, one runs YouTube, a movie, webpage or streaming stuff. 3rd one with monitoring software stuff.
I do the same thing, when I'm in game frame rates for 5760x1080 rarely reach 60fps. But I usually have TS in one screen and performance monitor in the other because PS2 has mem leaks.
That is viable only if u put ur screens horizontally, that must take a lot of space. Anyway i'm stuck to 1 for now, i'd need 2x780 to run 3 monitors and that'd take another power supply as mine is 650W i doubt it can run 2 gfx.
Yeah I've got a wraparound desk setup. I'm probably gonna wait till the last minute and get 2 more GTX 780's in December (in anticipation for the SC launch). Enigma, how much wattage do you think I'd need to run that? I've got an 850 now and I figure that'd hold 2 just fine, but I'm thinking 11-1200W for 3.
For 3 of them you should have a 1KW power supply minimum. Depending on how hard you push overclocks on the GPUs and your CPU you may need closer to a 1200W PSU. Dont forget to have enough free amps on the circuit you are plugged in to, most people forget the little details like that till the wife starts vacuuming and trips the breaker.
Hey Enigma, just got the screen, i plugged it, it seems that i got one dead pixel only so it's allright. I applied custom resolution to 96hz, when i go to 120hz i got artefacts all over the place somehow ? But at 96 it works fine.
It can be a couple things: 1) The default timings that the Nvidia control panel selects for the resolution may need to be customized. This is a bit hard to do because most people dont understand the timing values at all. Auto works for most people though. Adjusting timings can get you a lower pixel clock for the same resolution, which can sometimes lead to better image stability. Other times you just do some adjustment without actually decreasing the clock speed much and just try to stabilize the image. 2) maybe the cable the monitor came with isnt quite good enough, sometimes you need a bit thicker wire to support the massive amount of bandwidth used. DVI is officially spec'ed to a minimum bandwidth of 9.9gbps on the dual link cable, but has no upper maximum bandwidth it is just whatever the copper can do. Thicker gauge wire allows higher bandwidth because it can send more data down the copper. Most cables are something like 28 or 30 gauge wires. You can get as large as 22AWG, which is insanely fat in a 25 pin single cable. Most people use the 24AWG Monoprice cables since they are cheap, triple shielded against EMI, and support huge bandwidth from their fatter wires. You can either give that cable a shot or just be happy with 96Hz. Did you also unlock the driver and restart your PC before you tried to use 120Hz? It could be the driver fighting the setting. Usually monitor flickering at really high refresh rates means your monitors internal PCB has hit its limit. artifacts and scan lines usually means your cable is limiting you. You can try out these settings if you want:
Thanks. Maybe the problem is driver related as i didn't find the utility to unlock it ? I only found coolbits but it seems very old. Any new utility that u know of ? Hm edit i found this but dunno if it works : http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher Also i think it's cable / screen related. When i go up to 110hz i got a black line appearing, then 120hz everything is full of vertical green noise like i'm looking at a radio displaying the waves.
Tested with ur manual correction it's the same result. Highest stable output i got is 105hz so i guess i'll stay to 100hz for now as i can V-Sync at 50 fps which is easy peasy. Want me to take a picture of the artifacts and post it there so maybe u got an idea of what it is ?
I have a pretty good idea of what you are talking about. I have done a lot of overclocking with these types of monitors on various systems and graphics cards. There are only a couple different styles of artifacts from this sort of stuff and all of it tends to be from the same issue. 96Hz is better to run than 100Hz, because it is nearly the exact same refresh time in ms but 48FPS+96Hz refresh syncs up nicely when watching videos that run at 24fps which is the NTSC standard. PAL in the European countries is 30FPS on videos so either 90 or 120Hz works better for those videos. It is one of the reasons 120Hz is perfect because it works perfect with NTSC (5x frames) or PAL (4x frames) systems for smoothness in video and also perfectly with standard PC gaming and stuff than likes 60fps (2x frames).
Ok thx in any case, happy of the purchase ! Very nice screen and there's no led bleed either so it's great ! Thanks for all the infos. dunno how i could possibly fit 3 of those monsters on my desk tho. My eyes would bleed.
I forgot to get my exact manual timings last night for you. Those ones I posted above are similar but I dont think they are exactly what I am using. I will try to post up the ones I use for both my Catleap 2B and my QX2710 monitors.
I just wanted to chime in about this. The gauge in high-frequency conductors has a lot less impact on the available bandwidth than the change in cross-sectional area might have you think. The full volume of a cable isn't used at higher frequencies because of the skin effect. It really only becomes important once you start talking about getting to longer cable lengths. Now that's not to say a crappy cable isn't the problem. There's plenty of other issues that may arise from a crappy cable. Poor shielding, wires with lengths that aren't matched well.
Yes but even when just the outer area is used it is still a difference of 0.635mm (32AWG) to 1.607mm (24AWG) usable area for signal, and the majority of people who have these monitors and cannot reach up at 120Hz or higher have found that a thicker gauge cable has helped them reach higher refresh rates.