I ran memtest from a USB drive for 15 hours. Here are the results: What does this mean? I feel like there shouldn't be any errors?
No there should not be any errors. Ideally you want to be able to leave it for 15-20 passes and have no errors, that will let you know that memory is 99.99999% stable. That Memtest program does all sorts of different tests that stress different parts of the RAM. It is a very comprehensive program. Tests 5 and 7 are usually the ones where you see errors if you are going to have any. Honestly 2 errors on test 5 out of 16 passes is not terrible, but it does mean you are not completely stable. Either increase the voltage on the memory by a little bit, or if that doesnt help then increase the voltage on the memory controller by a little bit. Normally when people have unstable memory, they tend to see many errors and right on the first pass. The worst I have ever done myself is a few thousand errors within seconds of starting up Memtest
I'll run it again within the next week and let it go for that number of passes. I'll be gone for 3 days next week so maybe have it run over that period of time. I may just end up buying new memory so I can do away with corsair products. If I do decide that, any recommendations in the 1600-2133 mhz range for 16 gb (2x8 gb) with a similar aesthetic that is also reliable?
My favorite is still Mushkin. A few others here have tried Mushkin sticks on my recommendation and no one has been dissapointed yet. You can get either black or red heatspreaders. Redline sticks are binned higher so they have more OC headroom. The newer heatspreader design is somewhat similar looking GSkill is another good choice and it has a similar heatspreader design too.
I'll look into those. If I can get redline with black heatspreaders that would be great. Doesn't look like it though. Random info: *Measured with KILL A WATT Idle Power draw- 90-105 Watts Folding@home GPU+CPU @ 100%- ~290 Watts CPU @ 4.5136 GHz, 1.275 volts (aisuite setting; HWinfo=1.246 V; CPU-Z=1.344 V; No idea which is correct), PLL voltage 1.6 GPU @ 1228 Mhz Core clock + 3443 Mem Clock Crysis 3 MP beta- ~315 Watts CPU @ 4.5136 GHz, 1.275 V, PLL 1.8 (80% load) GPU @ Stock Speeds (95-100% load)
You can try raising your voltage a bit before you run the test again to see if that fixes the stability If I was in the market for RAM right now I would be buying these: http://www.mushkin.com/Memory/Redline/992071-(11).aspx http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226383 A very close second would be this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231623 ^^^ Heard really great things about those sticks
My last 2 builds I used G.Skill and Mushkin. Didn't have any issues with them. Latest build was Mushkin Blacklines. Good recommendations.
Off topic -- I came into the CS channel 2 days ago and was screaming at you then you timed out and disconnected. <3
Enigma, Do you think the ridgeback heatsinks are worth the extra money over the frostbyte heatsinks, on redline ram? i have the frostbytes and im looking at getting another kit, maybe i should get ridgebacks instead? given that all the timings mhz and voltages are the same but the price is higher is it even worth thinking about? just wondering since you recommended the ridgebacks earlier in this thread.
I dont think so. Supposedly it helps conduct the heat better because it has more surface area, but the heat spreaders never get that hot anyway. These days with the lower voltage I have found the PCB to get far hotter than most memory chips. It mattered more back in the DDR1 days when we used to push 3.3v or more into the chips. Be sure to find the same model # that you had before, so that you know the sticks have the same chips under the heat spreaders. The ridgeback models for any given chip type has the same model # as the frostbyte heat spreader sticks but is 1 number higher. So for example, say the frostbyte sticks are model 997104 then the ridgeback version of the same would be 997105.
How's this for PSU if corsair doesn't go for paying shipping? ANTEC high current pro 1000w platinum *edit* I should probably just go to the main guys for these things. Seasonic 1000w platinum? Even if I can get corsair to replace the hx1050 I might just sell it and get a new one anyway.
This is the one i got and very happy with it. So i recommend it. http://ncix.com/products/?sku=2222102776&vpn=RSA00-80GAD3-US&manufacture=Cooler Master Unless you specifically want platinum.
All the NCIX links just take me to the home page for some reason. But yes the 1kW SeaSonic platinum is a well known power supply. It would be better to look into a 650 or 750 watt PSU though, as you already measured your draw when playing Crysis 3 as something like 350w didnt you?
Yeah, load was about 350w while playing crysis 3. I'm going to look into the 850w version of the seasonic. I still am planning to throw in another 670 at some point. In other news, I have unlocked my gpu BIOS so more clock speed for me!!!!! Really easy to do. It only took ~1 min? I got a run through unigine valley @ 1254 MHz core and 3856 MHz memory clock. I haven't tried to game on it yet but I am 95% sure it is not stable in game. Even with 0 memory offset I couldn't get 1267 MHz to stick on the core ;( Makes me sad ;( ah well still happy with it. Also going to use the lightboost hack on my monitor to see how I like it. HOLY FUCK!!! So It took another minute to install this hack and jesus christ it makes a world of difference. First and foremost, the colors on this monitor just got about 100x better. Windows look great. My asus TUF desktop looks better than ever. The colours in AIsuiteII toolbar are fantastic. Then! I loaded up Crysis 3 and having spent roughly 20 hours on the thing since launch I have grown pretty accustom to the colour scheme. Let me tell you, just ridiculous the change this made. I'm never going back. Lightboost is set to 100% and my contrast is set to 65.
Corsair agreed to pay for shipping both ways after I told them I've had to return all of my corsair products. Still went out and bought the seasonic 860w though. Just going to sell the new 1050 that comes back. I'm also going to treat the PSU as a fanless PSU and mount it with the "intake" facing up in my 800D. Reason being that up to a certain temperature the PSU relies on radiation to cool itself. If it is facing up the heat will radiate out the honeycomb area above the fan. When it needs to be cooled the fan will turn on and draw air from the compartment it is in that has access to cool air through the mesh at the bottom of the case anyway. Seems reasonable to me. For their totally passive PSUs they have a sticker that says it must be mounted that way.
Time to finally sort out the memory. So I have upped the voltage to 1.53 but it is messing with me when I am running custom prime95@90% of available memory. Getting memory related BSODs and it's keeping me from pushing my OC on my CPU. Really annoying. So I can't find any 2x8 Gb kits of mushkin blackline at 2133 MHz + and I as much as this stuff is the best red sticks will just look messed up in my system :/ So as an alternative to the mushkin black/redline and the g.skill monstrosities have you guys heard anything about the new Kingstone HyperX Beast RAM? They have a set at 2400 MHz which looks to be the top end of what my mobo will handle with 1.65 V. It's also unbuffered just like the mushkin stuff + lifetime warranty. edit** people around don't seem enamoured with them.
all regular desktop RAM is unbuffered non-ECC, nothing special there. Also, lifetime warranty is normal last I checked I cant remember seeing any company without one. I havent looked into the newest performance RAM in the past month or two now, but last I saw the GSkill trident's were back on top with some really great stuff. Although as you said, those are the giant heatspreader ones. Just crank 1.6+ volts into your RAM and see if that fixes the errors. If it doesnt then the problem is not in the RAM voltage. And no 1.6v wont hurt them. I like to have fun with 1.9v on my memory. And just a couple weeks ago I pushed 2.35v into some low voltage 1.35v DDR3 sticks and they are perfectly fine. Sadly with my memory controller being kinda sucky I could only get a 800MHz overclock (1600 to 2400MHz) out of the RAM sticks at that huge voltage.